Last night’s major roll-out of the new Adobe Photoshop CC system (the successor to CS6) included a lot of cool features.  One of them is Photoshop’s ability to store application settings to the cloud, and synchronize them across all your computers.  Of particular interest to me was the ability to include your custom actions and synchronize them as well.

When you install Photoshop CC, it should automatically enable this feature.  If you want to view, disable, or customize what gets synchronized, the options are at the very bottom of your Edit menu.  It appears as the email address that your Creative Cloud account is tied to.  Here are a couple screen shots:

The Edit menu will allow you to open the dialog box for granular control over Photoshop CC's new ability to sync settings.

The Edit menu will allow you to open the dialog box for granular control over Photoshop CC’s new ability to sync settings.

You can choose to sync or not sync a variety of settings including actions, tool presets, swatches, and more to the cloud and across devices.

You can choose to sync or not sync a variety of settings including actions, tool presets, swatches, and more to the cloud and across devices.

 

I was excited to see this use of the Creative Cloud system finally appear in an application.  Illustrator also supports syncing in the same way, but I was unable to find the same options in InDesign, Lightroom, or Bridge.  When I questioned the Lightroom product managers about the future of sync capability, I was told that it is “not currently on the roadmap,” which is disappointing news for photographers who juggle workloads at home and on the road.

By: Gavin Farrington

You can also follow me on Twitter @ProTogTech, or Facebook.

Anticipating the upcoming release of Adobe Lightroom 5?  There are some cool new features on the way, many of which I’ve already outlined in my preview of the product for Maximum PC.

Some of the keyboard shortcuts have changed since Lightroom 4.  Here are the common ones that have impacted my workflow:

  • Toggling through screen modes (normal, fullscreen, fullscreen w/o menus) used to simply be the F key under Lightroom 4.  In Lightroom 5 the F key now shows a fullscreen preview of the selected image.  Shift-F is the new shortcut.  If you want to jump straight to fullscreen w/o menus, Ctrl-Shift-F (Cmd-Shift-F on Mac) is the new shortcut.
  • Jump straight to the new Radial Filter Tool: Shift-M.  This works within the Develop module, or right from the Library.
  • Traditional Spot Removal Tool: Lightroom 5 now adds the ability to draw non-circular spot removal areas, an awesome feature to be sure.  Simply click and drag to start painting your non-circular removal area.  In Lightroom 4, clicking and dragging would define the spot (the click,) then define where the fill should be sourced (the drag.)  If you want this same behavior in Lightroom 5, hold down the Ctrl key (Cmd on Mac) and click-drag to set the spot and source in one fluid motion.

This morning I ran into a battery issue with my Canon 5d mark III, and in the interest of being thorough, I wanted to do a full system flush on the camera.  You know the flush I mean – where you pull the battery, card, and even the clock battery, then let the camera sit for 30 minutes to completely “flush” the system.  Think of it as a thorough system reset.

Anyhow, I quickly discovered that the clock battery is not stored in the same location as it is on my older 5d mark II.  A quick Google search turned up plenty of references to performing the process, but nothing that indicated just where the clock battery was located or how to remove it.  Since I was on my own, I decided to go exploring and post images of the process.

You’ll need a very small Philips-head screwdriver; something you might use for repairing glasses.  There’s only a single screw to remove, but be very careful not to lose it.

First, open the rubber flaps that protect the connectors on the camera body's left side.

First, open the rubber flaps that protect the connectors on the camera body’s left side.

Use a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw securing the battery holder.

Use a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw securing the battery holder.

Once the screw is removed, slide the tray out that contains the battery.

Once the screw is removed, slide the tray out that contains the battery.

04_canon-5d-mark-mk-III-3-clock-battery_0749

The tray holds the battery even after it's removed from the camera.

The tray holds the battery even after it’s removed from the camera.

Did this help you out?  Please leave a comment below, and follow my Facebook or Google+ page!

By: Gavin Farrington

Do you use the mRAW or sRAW capture options on your Canon dSLR to save space?  If you do, there’s a chance your good intentions are backfiring.

If you leave your files in the native Canon .cr2 format, there’s nothing to worry about.  But if you’re like me and always convert everything to Adobe’s DNG format, you’re actually increasing the file size.

The reason has to do with the way the data is stored.  Unlike a full RAW file, the sRAW and mRAW files are not true RAW files.  That is, they’re more like a super-powered .tiff file in that the pixels are a full mix of all three color channels.  When you convert this data to DNG, it cannot store it as efficiently as it can store a true RAW, and the file size increases significantly.

Consider this example.  I took one photograph with my Canon 5d mark III set to mRAW.  I then made two copies of that file for three total.  One I left in its native .cr2 format, one I converted to DNG, and the third I converted to lossy DNG.  Here are the resulting file sizes:

CR2 (original file):  21.3MB
Lossless DNG:  31.2MB (46% increase)
Lossy DNG:  3.8MB

As you can see, the increase in file size is significant.  But there’s hope!  Adobe’s Lossy DNG format sees huge gains from the lower resolution file.  I know “lossy” sounds scary, but in my experience the files are robust and retain a very high degree of quality.  Next time you’re out shooting for fun, try it out and see if you can detect the loss of quality in the Lossy DNG files.  Perhaps it’s a good solution for you, and it would mean even more storage gain.

[Notes - DNG Conversion Settings]
All of the above files were created with the DNG converter set to embed a full 1:1 preview.  This was done to create the most fair file size comparison, since the .CR2 file contains a 1:1 preview created by the camera.  If you choose to completely disable the preview, you’ll see even smaller file sizes.

I put Windows 8 on my HP Envy 15 the day Microsoft released it, and for the most part I’ve been happy.  However the control over the brightness of the screen stopped working. I would tap the keys for the brightness control, and the indicator would appear as if it were adjusting the screen, but the screen brightness didn’t actually change.

Well “Adrynalyne” has found the solution, and fully details every step over on his post, “Fix Brightness Control for Windows 8 AMD SG Drivers.”

You can read everything there, but if you’re just looking for a super quick answer, find this registry key:

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Class\{4d36e968-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001]“FeatureTestControl”=dword:0000f842

Double click “FeatureTestControl” and change the value from “f842″ to “f940″.

Reboot.  Fixed.

My laptop is using HP provided display drivers.  If yours is not, you may want to refer to Adrynalyne’s article for more options.

There are no “take twos” in weddings or journalism.  Even if a shoot could be done over, often it’s at great time, expense, and a hit to your reputation.

Whenever I buy new memory cards, I want to QC them myself.  I suppose I could go out on a photowalk and shoot until my card is full, but that would mean reviewing all of those images back home to verify that nothing is corrupted.  Sounds like a lot of time to me.

Enter Charles Mihail.  What Charles has done is create a free little utility called Check Flash that tests memory cards by writing a known data pattern to the entire card, then reading back that pattern to be sure it matches what was written.  In the process of running its test, it will even give you a handy little performance readout – one for read and one for write speeds.

This gives me great peace-of-mind when going into a job with a brand-new memory card.  Between this, and using the “record to multiple” feature on the Canon 5d mk III and Canon 1D-X, I can be confident everything is stored properly.

Here’s a screen-shot showing the settings I used.

Caution:
Be aware that using this utility fills the entire device with randomized data.  This means that if you overwrite files you need, you WILL NOT BE ABLE TO RECOVER THEM!  I don’t care how fancy your recovery software is, it won’t work.

Note:
It took Check Flash a little over 50 minutes to test a 400x CF card using a USB3 card reader.  Take this into consideration if you buy them a few minutes before  a shoot!

Canon’s ST-E3-RT was a disappointment for low-light and event photographers because, unlike it’s predecessor, it lacks the AF assist beam.  If you need the AF assist, you’re forced to use a full fledged 600EX-RT, but what if you don’t actually want the master unit to produce any light?  Simple.  Pop the flash onto your 5d mk III, and use the following steps (also works on a 1D-X.)

Select "External Speedlight control" on the first page of the red menu.

Select "Flash firing" in the submenu.

Using the set button, change to "Disable."

Notice much of the menu greys out once the flash is disabled. All control over slave flashes, and the AF assist beam will continue to work. This setting will also disable any other trigger devices you may be using such as PocketWizards.

 

To speed up this process in the future, consider adding the “External Speedlight control” menu item to your “My Menu” on the camera.

External speedlight control added to the Canon 5d mk III's "My Menu."

 

Don’t forget you’ve made this change, or you’ll make yourself nuts the next time you need the flash to work!

There’s also access to this setting through the menus on the flash itself, but I find this to be the fastest way to do it.

Amazon ran a one-day sale on these cards a few days ago, so I picked a few up.  I like having a number of cards to choose from when going into a wedding or event, especially when those shoots happen over consecutive days.  It’s a good idea to hang on to your unformatted memory cards until you’ve sorted through the images sufficiently to know that everything downloaded properly.  Having additional cards allows you to put off overwriting an event even longer.

I chose to get two of the Transcend 400x 64GB CF cards, and two of the Transcend 64GB Class 10 SDXC cards.  I use one CF and one SDXC as a set in my 5d mk III* cameras, and configure it to “record to multiple” so my camera is making backups on the fly.  It is a wedding after all.  No second chances.

So how do these perform?  Pretty good!  For the CF card, CrystalDiskMark reports 135MB/s read, and 72MB/s write.  Compare that to my 400x 64GB Lexar Pro UDMA7 card at 116MB/s read, 73MB/s write.

As expected, the Class 10 SDXC cards were much slower.  CrystalDiskMark reported 23.4MB/s read, and 17.7MB/s write.  Compare that to a Sandisk 64GB SDXC UHS-I 30MB/s card, which clocked 40.7MB/s read, 14.1MB/s write.

For the most detailed info, check the bottom of the article.  Here’s an easy-to-read chart.

All tests performed on Win8 Pro x64, USB3.  CF cards were tested with a PixelFlash USB3 card reader.  SDXC cards were tested with a Transcend TS-RDF8K.

*The Canon 5d mk III doesn’t support the UHS-i spec, so while these cards function just fine in the camera, they provide no performance benefit.  Yes, it makes the camera slow.  No, there’s nothing you can do about it.  If you like conspiracy theories, consider that Canon may have intentionally nerfed the 5d mk III so that you’d have another reason to upgrade to the 1D-x.  Check out my article for more details on the performance impact of writing files to the SD card in the 5d mk III.

 

 

If you like seeing the dirty details, continue reading.

CF Cards

Transcend 400x 64GB CF
———————————————————————–
CrystalDiskMark 3.0.2 x64 (C) 2007-2012 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
———————————————————————–
* MB/s = 1,000,000 byte/s [SATA/300 = 300,000,000 byte/s]

Sequential Read : 135.967 MB/s
Sequential Write : 72.256 MB/s
Random Read 512KB : 130.312 MB/s
Random Write 512KB : 20.882 MB/s
Random Read 4KB (QD=1) : 8.296 MB/s [ 2025.3 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=1) : 1.195 MB/s [ 291.7 IOPS]
Random Read 4KB (QD=32) : 9.874 MB/s [ 2410.7 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=32) : 1.315 MB/s [ 321.1 IOPS]

Test : 1000 MB [L: 0.0% (0.0/59.6 GB)] (x5)
Date : 2012/11/19 17:14:59
OS : Windows 8 [6.2 Build 9200] (x64)

 

Lexar Pro 400x 64GB UDMA7 CF
———————————————————————–
CrystalDiskMark 3.0.2 x64 (C) 2007-2012 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
———————————————————————–
* MB/s = 1,000,000 byte/s [SATA/300 = 300,000,000 byte/s]

Sequential Read : 116.729 MB/s
Sequential Write : 73.921 MB/s
Random Read 512KB : 112.638 MB/s
Random Write 512KB : 1.421 MB/s
Random Read 4KB (QD=1) : 9.622 MB/s [ 2349.1 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=1) : 0.010 MB/s [ 2.4 IOPS]
Random Read 4KB (QD=32) : 10.711 MB/s [ 2615.0 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=32) : 0.011 MB/s [ 2.7 IOPS]

Test : 1000 MB [L: 0.0% (0.0/59.6 GB)] (x5)
Date : 2012/11/19 18:47:12
OS : Windows 8 [6.2 Build 9200] (x64)

 

SanDisk Extreme 60MB/s 64GB
———————————————————————–
CrystalDiskMark 3.0.2 x64 (C) 2007-2012 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
———————————————————————–
* MB/s = 1,000,000 byte/s [SATA/300 = 300,000,000 byte/s]

Sequential Read : 78.645 MB/s
Sequential Write : 50.386 MB/s
Random Read 512KB : 78.604 MB/s
Random Write 512KB : 2.347 MB/s
Random Read 4KB (QD=1) : 5.035 MB/s [ 1229.4 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=1) : 1.575 MB/s [ 384.4 IOPS]
Random Read 4KB (QD=32) : 5.721 MB/s [ 1396.8 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=32) : 0.541 MB/s [ 132.1 IOPS]

Test : 1000 MB [L: 0.0% (0.0/59.6 GB)] (x5)
Date : 2012/11/19 21:55:27
OS : Windows 8 [6.2 Build 9200] (x64)

 

SDXC Cards

Patriot LX SDXC
———————————————————————–
CrystalDiskMark 3.0.2 x64 (C) 2007-2012 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
———————————————————————–
* MB/s = 1,000,000 byte/s [SATA/300 = 300,000,000 byte/s]

Sequential Read : 38.894 MB/s
Sequential Write : 20.136 MB/s
Random Read 512KB : 33.528 MB/s
Random Write 512KB : 0.972 MB/s
Random Read 4KB (QD=1) : 1.735 MB/s [ 423.5 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=1) : 0.373 MB/s [ 91.0 IOPS]
Random Read 4KB (QD=32) : 1.757 MB/s [ 429.0 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=32) : 0.118 MB/s [ 28.8 IOPS]

Test : 1000 MB [I: 0.0% (0.0/59.7 GB)] (x5)
Date : 2012/11/19 18:28:49
OS : Windows 8 [6.2 Build 9200] (x64)

 

Transcend Class 10 SDXC 64GB
———————————————————————–
CrystalDiskMark 3.0.2 x64 (C) 2007-2012 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
———————————————————————–
* MB/s = 1,000,000 byte/s [SATA/300 = 300,000,000 byte/s]

Sequential Read : 23.425 MB/s
Sequential Write : 17.785 MB/s
Random Read 512KB : 22.450 MB/s
Random Write 512KB : 5.059 MB/s
Random Read 4KB (QD=1) : 3.781 MB/s [ 923.2 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=1) : 0.825 MB/s [ 201.4 IOPS]
Random Read 4KB (QD=32) : 3.758 MB/s [ 917.4 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=32) : 0.877 MB/s [ 214.0 IOPS]

Test : 1000 MB [I: 0.0% (0.0/59.5 GB)] (x5)
Date : 2012/11/19 19:24:12
OS : Windows 8 [6.2 Build 9200] (x64)

 

SanDisk Ultra 30MB/s SDXC
———————————————————————–
CrystalDiskMark 3.0.2 x64 (C) 2007-2012 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
———————————————————————–
* MB/s = 1,000,000 byte/s [SATA/300 = 300,000,000 byte/s]

Sequential Read : 40.685 MB/s
Sequential Write : 14.183 MB/s
Random Read 512KB : 38.390 MB/s
Random Write 512KB : 1.040 MB/s
Random Read 4KB (QD=1) : 4.422 MB/s [ 1079.5 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=1) : 2.074 MB/s [ 506.2 IOPS]
Random Read 4KB (QD=32) : 2.811 MB/s [ 686.3 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=32) : 2.020 MB/s [ 493.1 IOPS]

Test : 1000 MB [I: 25.1% (14.9/59.4 GB)] (x5)
Date : 2012/11/19 20:38:01
OS : Windows 8 [6.2 Build 9200] (x64)

[Edited on 11/1/2012 for clarification.]

One of the ongoing challenges for photographers is storage – there’s never enough.  That goes double for us RAW shooters.  Video folks have it even worse, but no matter how you slice it, we’re one of the few small businesses that can generate more data at a single wedding/event/shoot than most medium-sized spreadsheet-and-email businesses generate all year.  Our challenges are compounded by the fact that most storage devices designed to contain this volume of data are targeted at medium to large business IT budgets.

You know you’re supposed to back up regularly, but when you’re constantly running out of hard drive space, it gets to be a bit of a headache just managing where everything is kept!  Perhaps you’ve looked at NAS or Drobo type devices (and many of those are awesome products with lots of cool features) but what’s a good alternative when you want to do it for a lower cost-of-entry, or you want an inexpensive backup to a NAS product you already own?

Windows 8 to the rescue.

A new feature in Windows 8 is called “storage spaces.”  This will take plain old drives, and “pool” them together into a single, expandable drive letter.  It will even add redundancy if you configure it correctly.  It works with SATA, eSATA, SAS, and USB drives.  (Be aware that USB2 devices are performance limited, though this may not matter much if you’re simply treating it as a backup device.)  They do not have to be matched in any way, so you can add your older 1TB drives, and that new 4TB behemoth you just bought.  And the awesome part?  When the drives in the pool fill up, just add another drive to the pool, and it expands the size of that existing drive letter, without impacting your existing data!  That’s right – no more overflowing backups to yet-another-drive and having to keep it all organized.

So what do you need to get started?  One, two, or three drives, and a moment to read through this tutorial.

WARNING, DATA ON THE EXISTING DRIVES WILL BE WIPED OUT WHEN FIRST CONFIGURING THE STORAGE SPACE!
This process shouldn’t be scary, but I have to say this.  I’m not responsible if you lose data in the process of setting up or using this feature.

In my case, I have three USB3 Seagate GoFlex Desktop drives.  One is empty, and two contain current backups.  What I want to end up with is all three drives in a single pool, with RAID5 equivalent redundancy.  This makes it so the entire pool can survive a single drive failure.  There are other configuration options, here they are:

  • Simple (no resiliancy)
    • Use this option if you don’t care about data loss due to a drive failure.  Examples might be a home movie or music collection which is also backed up somewhere else, and you simply want the maximum usable space possible.
  • Two-way mirror
    • This is the option I’m choosing.  You are required to begin the pool with at least two drives to enable this configuration.  The data in the pool will survive if one drive fails.  The trade-off is that you may experience slightly lower performance, and you’ll have less usable space than the total sum of the drives.  This is because the computer is using some of the space to store multiple copies of everything to protect against the loss of one drive.
    • Edit: After reading more, I may change to the “parity” system.  For my use, backup capacity is more important than performance.  Parity offers slightly better space utilization at the cost of slightly reduced speed.  If this will be an actual working drive, two-way-mirror offers better performance at the cost of some capacity.
  • Three-way mirror
    • For the extra-paranoid.  You must begin the pool with a minimum of three drives to enable this configuration.  This option works identically to the “two-way” option above, with the exception that your computer keeps three copies of everything and can survive the loss of two drives from the pool.  Because it keeps three copies, you’ll notice significantly less usable space than the sum total of all the connected drives, which increases your long-term storage expenses.
    • The primary reason I’m not using this option is that I have other backup devices which store copies of the same data that I’ll be putting on the pool.  NEVER TREAT ANY SINGLE POOL, RAID, or NAS DEVICE AS YOUR ONLY BACKUP, NO MATTER HOW RESILIENT IT CLAIMS TO BE!
  • Parity
    • This option offers the same level of data protection as Two-way mirror, but it requires you to begin with three drives.  Under the hood, this is a much closer match to a traditional RAID5 volume.  If you’ll only use the pool as a backup device (not a working space) and you have the three empty drives to begin with, you might choose to begin with this option.

Let’s walk through the process of creating your starting storage space.

  1. Hold the keys Windows + X, and open the control panel from the menu that appears in the lower left of the screen.
  2. Click on the green text System and Security.
  3. Click on Storage Spaces
    Storage Spaces option in the Windows 8 control panel.
  4. Click “create new pool and storage space.”  You will be given a UAC promt, so enter your password or click OK.
    Create a new pool and storage space in Windows 8 control panel.
  5. Select the drives you want to begin with.  Remember, for the “two-way mirror” option to be available in the next screen, you must begin with two or more drives.  For the “three-way mirror” and “parity” options to be available in the next screen, you must select three or more drives on this screen.
    1. Select drives to assign to storage space in Windows 8
    2. CAUTION! This screen does not identify drives by drive letter.  Use the “view files” link to be absolutely sure you are selecting the correct drives.
    3. CAUTION! Clicking “create pool” to go to the next step, makes the existing data on your selected drives gone baby gone!  This is your final exit!
  6. Name, resiliency type, and size
    1. Configure storage space and resiliency options in Windows 8.
    2. Set a name for the storage space.  This is the same as setting a name when you format a traditional drive – it’s entirely up to you.
    3. Select a drive letter.  I chose P for “pool” (or “photo.”)  I’m just goofy like that.
    4. Set the size.  It can be anything you like, and you can change it later without loosing data, too.  Plan to use this one storage space for ever and ever?  Set it to something crazy like 200TB.  You’ll be able to continue adding drives in the future.  If you’re an old-hand at RAID technologies, notice that the capacity you enter on this screen becomes your usable data capacity, not the raw-data capacity.  Thank you Microsoft for making this decision so it’s easier for end-users to understand!  (In this case “raw-data capacity” has nothing to do with the RAW files your camera creates.)
    5. Click “create storage space,” and after a moment of configuring the drives you’ll be on your way!
    6. Notice that if you click “cancel” at this point, Windows automatically performs a standard format on the drives you selected in the previous screen and re-connects them to individual drive letters.  I wasn’t kidding in the previous step when I told you your data would be gone!  (Recovery software may help if you f*cked this one up.)

Done!  Windows will warn you when the drives are running low on space, and you can buy additional drives to add more capacity (up to the size you specified above.)

If you’re a power user, and you plan to use a storage space for your working-environment (not just a backup location) then you might want to read about performance considerations.  Microsoft has a great page: Storage Spaces Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ).  This will help you map out your starting configuration and manage capacity expansion for peak storage performance.

Are you planning to use Storage Spaces in Windows 8?  What’s your current backup configuration?  Tell us below!

Does the Datacolor Spyder 3 Pro work with Windows 8?  In a word, “yes.”

This bears mentioning only because, if you paid attention to the Microsoft Upgrade Advisor for Windows 8, the Spyder 3 Pro was flagged as a software item that would require a “paid upgrade.”  Well never fear, my dear reader, as this information is incorrect.  I’ve just finished installing Windows 8 Pro on my computer (whether it’s pro, home, or otherwise should be irrelevant,) and the Spyder 3 Pro software is working quite nicely.  I’ve already calibrated and profiled one screen, and my other screen is ticking along nicely as I type this.

In case you’ve lost the installer for your software, you can download it from Datacolor here:
http://support.datacolor.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=view

Happy upgrading!